Friday
The weekend started with confirmations of a long whispered rumor: Dunsey Thinley Norbu Rinpoche had arrived in Kathmandu and had gone to Pharping (Yangleshod - Tib.) to consecrate Khenpo Sangpo's new monastery. An opportunity opened for a place to stay in Pharping near to the monastery, and Anya and I made plans to go. Shortly thereafter, the plans dissolved as such things are want to do in Nepal. So, we decided to settle into Boudha and maybe make the trip out to Pharping later. Later Friday evening, I was walking to the Stupa to use the ol' internet when I ran into my Tibetan father (Pa-lah), who was talking with his super dreadlocked ngakpa (lay-practitioner of Vajrayana) brother, who I will hereafter be referring to as Akhu Ngakpa (Uncle Ngakpa). Pa-lah gleefully informed me that Dungsey Rinpoche was planning on circumambulating the Boudha Stupa that evening. I called Anya and met her at the Stupa soonafter, and we began waiting.
The stupa is usually buzzing with excitement on Friday evenings, but Friday felt different. Crowds gathered near the main gate and Big Bell, and would thin out and regather as rumors swelled that Rinpoche had arrived somewhere, or when another Rinpoche wandered by. During our two hour wait, information trickled in via cellphone reports from better connected ones than us. Rinpoche was coming, and soon!
Side note: Thinley Norbu Rinpoche is known for being completely unpredictable and difficult to see. Though he lives primarily in the US, I have heard that most of his students never know where he is or when they will see him next.
At 8pm, we received word that Rinpoche's arrival was immanent. The crowd lined up around the stupa holding khatakas, smiling at the likelihood of seeing Thinley Norbu after a 12 year absence in Nepal. Many Tibetans I've talked to remember his presence here with great devotion and have long longed to see him again. Around the bend of the stupa, a phalanx of young monks poured out, hands outstretched to keep the crowd at bay. If you've ever attended an dharma event with Tibetans in Asia, you know this is a necessary precaution. As the monks reached me, all hell broke loose as the crowd pushed forward and the monks pushed back. I stumbled back as dozens of monks landed in a burgundy pile at my feet.
I looked up and saw Rinpoche, grey-haired and unmoved by the insanity, slowly walking forward, being held from behind by a tall blond western woman. As Rinpoche passed me by, I ran with hundreds others further along the circumambulation route to catch another glimpse. I repeated this a number of times, catching glimpse and being passed. What struck me the most was how Rinpoche was the one still point in the midst of a crowd driven mad by religious devotion and a no-holds-barred-trample-your-grandmother attitude to acquiring the blessings of seeing the lama. After Rinpoche, entourage and mob completed one circumambulation, he exiting the main gate, followed by a pulse of hundreds of Tibetans. I watched as the crowd emptied into the street and Rinpoche drove away.
Very quickly, the Stupa became peaceful again as the crowd thinned out and people went home. Anya and I retired to my house for some celebratory momo's, still reeling with joy at having seen Thinley Norbu, who had for me been more a mythical person that someone I might actually see.
Saturday
The day started out lazy enough. Anya and I woke up and had breakfast: eggs, bread and spicy potatoes as usual. After returning home to do some solo studying, I met with Anya at the Dream Factory Cafe, where we met my erstwhile elder brother (Cho-chok) Adam who joined us for lunch. He let slip what was to soon be confirmed by text message from another friend: that his teacher Tsoknyi Rinpoche was arriving in Kathmandu today, bearing the reincarnation of his father: Tulku Urgyen Yangsi Rinpoche. We checked with the requisite authorities and discovered that Yangsi (literally again-born) Rinpoche would be arriving at Rangjung Yeshe Gompa (our monastery-school) that afteroon.
We gathered in the courtyard of the monastery around 2pm and studyied Abhidharma and Buddhist epistemology while we waited. The monastery's full compliment of monks slowly filled the edges of the courtyard, joined by nuns from Nagi Gompa and a small compliment of local Tibetans and westerners. Eventually, the convoy arrived, bearing 9 year old Urgyen Yangsi and almost the whole family. See the above linked article for more information, but I'll say it was really a joyful occasion to see Urgyen Tulku returning to his home - this time to stay for good and commence his religious education under the direction of his sons from his precious life. This 9 year old boy was so serene and kind, patiently offering everyone lining both sides of the walkway khataks. Not your usual 9 year old to be sure. The event had a markedly different tone compared to the insanity at the Stupa the night before. It felt like a family event, and indeed it was, as the whole Rangjung Yeshe clan (minus Mingyur Rinpoche) was assembled for the first time in over a year. Calm pervaded the crowd, and there was none of the mad desperation of the night before.
I cannot really describe how happy I am to know that Urgyen Yangsi will be living here at the monastery where I study. The place feels transformed and I am filled with renewed vigor to continue my studies.
Sunday
After all that, I'll suffice to say that on Sunday, Anya and I made the trip to Pharping with our friend Pema Chokyi to participate in a Tsok (ritual feast) with Thinley Norbu Rinpoche and a few thousands dharma people. We spent the night in the Shugseb Ani Gompa - Anya with a nun friend of hers, and me with a Golokpa Rinpoche friend of Pema's. It was a nice cap to the weekend. And after being awoken at 4:3oam after finishing Tsok at 11pm, I am very tired and haggard though joyful to have made a small connection with a few holy beings.
Now, the study and practice and distraction continues.
Love to you all.
